May 31 - Face it..
*Old post from a while back
Back in April of 2007 I found myself in a situation that I had absolutely no control over and honestly thought I was about to see the end of my days. For those of you that know me, know that I absolutely love the ocean and when the waves are big you can guarantee to find me in the water. A huge swell from Mexico swept up our coast and the infamous “Wedge” in Newport was getting hit with waves 25-30ft. The thing about Wedge is that it breaks in about 4-8ft deep waters depending on the tide and if you are in the right place at the right time out there you can catch the biggest waves and get the biggest barrels of your life BUT if you are in the wrong place at the wrong time you are in a world of trouble.
I sat on the sand reading and watching the waves trying to find the perfect window of opportunity to get out in the water. Timing was crucial this day because you did not want to be that guy who gets stuck inside only to get mowed down by these beast of waves coming in. Keep in mind these waves were coming in about 8-10 waves at a time only minutes apart between sets. After watching for a bit I grabbed my board and my guts and headed out. At the time these were the biggest waves I had ever ridden. After catching a few waves and getting warmed up I found myself becoming more comfortable in the big surf.
After a few waves, I rode one all the way in and then proceeded to paddle back out only except this time my timing was not as well planned out. As I began paddling back out I saw another set coming in from the back and from years of experience in the water I could tell that I was in a spot that I did not want to be in. The first wave came and I made it underneath but it was so powerful I was unable to paddle forward and found myself not moving anywhere staring at 9 more waves coming in as big as 3 story buildings. I knew I was royally f*cked. I was now in a situation I absolutely did not want to be in and had no control over. I felt my heart drop to the bottom of my stomach knowing there was no way out and that the next few minutes of my life (if I made it) were really going to suck. I faced what I had to face honestly thinking I was staring at death. Wave after wave I was tossed around like a little rag doll with little to no breath in my lungs. After being slapped around by mother nature I finally made it back to shore and puked up enough water to create another ocean but I MADE IT..I SURVIVED.
This situation taught me a couple things. One..work on my timing when paddling out and two..I know if this were to happen again I can handle it and be ok. In life we will be put in situations where we have to step outside our comfort zone and see what we are made of. We will either turn away and run or face it head on and become stronger and wiser from it.
Running 2 miles, doing 100 Pull Ups, 200 Push Ups, and 300 sit ups sucks but all of you stepped outside your comfort zone and finished it. You all survived. Training your mind and adapting your body to these situations will not only help you inside the gym but in the real world as well. Next time you find yourself in one of these predicaments face it head on and watch yourself grow as a human being. -A.J.






















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